Slowfeeders help horses eat more calmly. They can bring more peace around feeding time and sometimes help reduce the amount of hay that gets scattered. However, not every slowfeeder suits every situation. A greedy eater often needs something different from a senior horse with sensitive teeth. And in a paddock, how you attach the slowfeeder may require different choices than in a stable. Below we compare hay nets, hay racks, boxes with grids and treat balls, with special attention to safety, mesh size and practical placement.

 

What is a slowfeeder?

A slowfeeder is a feeding solution that slows down feed intake through a physical restriction. Think of a net with mesh over hay, a grid in a feed trough, or a hay rack with a narrower opening. Your horse takes longer to eat and cannot easily take large mouthfuls. This often suits the natural foraging behaviour, where horses take multiple small portions throughout the day.

 

Roughage slowfeeder vs. concentrate slowfeeder

Slowfeeder for roughage (hay/haylage)

For roughage you mainly see hay nets, slowfeeder hay racks and feed troughs with grids. These are often good choices if you want your horse to spend longer eating and to reduce the amount of hay that gets scattered.

 

Slowfeeder for concentrate (horse nuts/chaff mix)

For concentrate feed, feeding puzzles are mainly used. This can suit horses that eat their ration quickly or that could benefit from extra mental stimulation.

Please note: not every horse stays calm with them, and on a wet or slippery surface they can slide around.

 

What types of slowfeeders are there?

Hay net (knotted or knotless)

•      Advantages: flexible and affordable, easy to move, many mesh options available

•      Points to note: attachment must be genuinely secure, check regularly for wear, less suitable for shod horses

•      Best use: stable, paddock, horsebox/trailer (with safe hanging)

 

Hay rack (wall, floor or round bale feeder)

•      Advantages: robust and durable, suitable for multiple horses at once, less loose hay and waste

•      Points to note: requires space and safe placement, watch for sharp edges

•      Best use: paddock/pasture, group housing

 

Feed trough/box with grid or net insert

•      Advantages: neat and practical to use, less 'pulling' at the hay, often calmer eating behaviour

•      Points to note: cleaning takes more time, size must suit the ration and the horse

•      Best use: stable or sheltered feeding area

 

Feed ball / feeding puzzle

•      Advantages: horse physically and mentally engaged, ration easy to manage

•      Points to note: not suitable for every surface, some horses become frustrated

•      Best use: concentrate (limited portions), preventing boredom

 

Mesh size & material: how to make the right choice

The right mesh size is all about balance: enough slowing down, but still practical. If the mesh is too small, it can cause frustration (or your horse stops eating). If it is too large, you often notice very little difference.

• Starting point for most horses: an 'average' mesh (e.g. around 4–5 cm) and then fine-tune based on eating speed.
• Greedy eaters: choose smaller, but build up gradually and check that your horse remains relaxed while eating.
• Ponies: a slightly smaller mesh is often appropriate, but look at the individual above all else.
• Senior horses or horses with dental problems: sometimes go larger or use a trough/box with a grid, so they do not have to pull too hard. When in doubt, consult a vet or equine dentist.

 

Material

Knotless nets often feel softer and cause less 'friction' against the lips. Knotted nets are usually slightly sturdier. In all cases, choose solid, hard-wearing material and check regularly for fraying and broken mesh.

 

Which mesh size is best?

There is no one-size-fits-all solution. An average mesh is often a perfectly good starting point. Then adjust based on your horse's eating speed and comfort. If you see frustration or insufficient intake, go larger or switch to a different type of slowfeeder.

 

Safety: how to prevent frustration and entanglement

A slowfeeder is only truly a good choice if it is safe in your situation. Pay attention to.

• Attachment: hang a hay net securely, with a fastening that cannot come loose. Avoid long loops that a hoof could get caught in.
• Height: do not hang too low (risk of entanglement), but not so high that the horse has to constantly reach upwards. A relaxed posture while eating is the goal.
• Horseshoes: take extra care with nets (risk of getting caught). Consider a trough/box with a grid or a safe hay rack instead.
• Multiple feeding spots: with several horses it often helps if there are enough feeding points, so less stress arises.
• Daily check: look for wear, knots, carabiners, sharp edges, and check the net has not rolled up into a dangerous loop.

 

Placement: stable, paddock, pasture and horsebox

In the stable

A trough/box with a grid or a well-secured hay net tends to be neat and practical. Make sure the feed does not disappear into straw or sand and that your horse can stand comfortably while eating.

 

In the paddock or track

Preferably choose something robust. A hay rack or a sturdy slowfeeder box is often more practical than loose nets. Ensure a stable, level surface to limit scattering and sand ingestion.

 

In the pasture

A hay rack or round-bale feeder system can be useful with multiple horses. Pay attention to shelter options and placement away from mud. Wind and weather can cause materials to wear faster, so inspect more frequently.

 

In the horsebox/trailer

Hang the net so that the horse can eat comfortably without it getting in the way. Check the attachment and height particularly carefully.

 

Getting your horse used to a slowfeeder (step-by-step)

• Start easy: begin with a larger mesh or offer part of the hay loose.
• Observe for 10–15 minutes: is your horse eating calmly or do you see frustration (pawing, biting, turning away)?
• Adjust gradually: make the mesh smaller or increase the proportion of roughage or concentrate when things are going calmly.
• Monitor intake: check that your horse is getting enough roughage, especially in cold weather or during hard work.

 

Does a slowfeeder help with boredom?

Often yes, because your horse spends longer eating. Combine this when needed with sufficient exercise, social contact and variety in management. Would you like to read more about a hay net for your horse? Then read our blog: Hay nets for horses: How beneficial are they for your horse's wellbeing?

 

Common mistakes (and solutions)

• Starting too small: horse becomes frustrated → start larger and reduce gradually.
• Unsafe hanging: long loops/loose hooks → attach short, taut and controlled.
• Too few feeding spots in a group: unrest and chasing → place multiple slowfeeders or hay racks.
• Net on sandy ground: more sand ingestion → use a trough/box, rubber matting or a hard-standing feeding area.

 

Checklist: choose the right slowfeeder in 60 seconds

• What am I feeding? Hay/haylage (roughage) or horse nuts/chaff mix (concentrate)?
• Where am I feeding? Stable, paddock, pasture or horsebox/trailer?
• Alone or in a group? How many feeding points do you need?
• Eating speed? Calm, average or greedy eater?
• Safety situation? Horseshoes, space, attachment options.
• Practical maintenance? Can I fill and clean it easily?

 

Looking further: slowfeeders by category

Want to compare directly? Check out the categories with suitable solutions:

• Hay nets & slowfeeder nets
• Treat balls & feeding puzzles

Ready to choose? Use the checklist above as your starting point, pick the type that suits your situation and get going. You don't have to search long for a good slowfeeder. The best one is simply safe, suits your horse and is easy to use every day.